Changing the
Neckline on a Basic Blouse or Dress
A basic round neckline on your
favorite blouse can easily be changed into many different neckline
styles. We'll give you step by
step instructions on how to change the basic round neckline into a square neckline.
STEP 1: On the front neckline,
measure over along the shoulder line 1 5/8". From this
shoulder-neckline point, draw a vertical line that is parallel to
the armhole as shown.
STEP 2: Measure down 1 3/8"
along the center front line. From this point draw a horizontal
line to meet the vertical neck line drawn down from the shoulder.
The new vertical and horizontal lines form the square neck.
STEP 3: At the shoulder edge of the
back neckline, measure along the shoulder line 1 5/8".
Remember here that whatever change you make to the FRONT shoulder
line, you have to make the same change to the BACK shoulder line in
order for the front and back bodice pieces to fit together when
sewing.
STEP 4: At the center back of the
neckline measure down 5/8" and draw in the new neckline curve as
shown.
Because you have made a new neckline, you will
need to add 5/8" seam allowance to the area that you've just
changed. The rest of the pattern, of course, already has seam
allowance on it. (NOTE: if the pattern you're using says
"1/4" seam allowance added", then you'll need to make the new
neckline seam allowance 1/4" as well, so all the seam allowances are
consistent).
When you change the neckline of a pattern, you
obviously won't have proper facing pieces in the pattern envelope to
make the facings. The following illustration shows how to lay
out the bodice in order to cut out the new blouse / top and the
facings for the new neckline.
The above illustration shows
how to lay the pattern on the fabric (this will also be given in
your pattern envelope). The reason we're showing it here is to
let you see the areas left after the bodice pieces are cut out --
the facings will be cut from the remaining material.
In the above drawing the
printed area indicates fabric and the black shaded area indicates
the areas where the front and back bodice have been cut from the
fabric. The front and back bodices are the bodices previously
cut out of the fabric, and positioned on the remnants to indicate
how to cut out facings for the new front and back neck. Be
sure to put the center front neck on the fold and the back neck
along the selvage edge, as was done with the bodices. After
cutting the neckline and down 2 3/8" along the shoulder line, flip
the bodice and fabric over and cut the neck facing 2 3/8" wide, as
shown in dotted lines. (The 6 you see is the number used if your
pattern also has centimeter measurements in it).
You can see how easy it is to
change the basic blouse/dress neckline into a completely different
style. If you would like to learn how to make EIGHT different
necklines from that ONE basic pattern, jump on down to the neckline
changing classes, as indicated below. There are two neckline
classes available - one for the regular S-XL size ranges, and the
Full Figure class for those who are 1X - 8X size ranges.
C1O1 - Neckline Changing Class - $7.95
CF-1O1 - Neckline Changing Class - $7.95
(Full Figure)
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