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How to make
a collar
You can make any number of collar
styles to go with a "basic" dress or blouse store bought clothing
pattern - the trick is simply to know where to start. In this
class we'll show you how to add a roll collar to your basic blouse /
dress pattern. Just for the sake of ease in doing your first
pattern collar change, we'll assume that your dress / blouse pattern has
a plain round neck and zipper closing in the back.
The first step in changing any
pattern is to make any changes to the bodice first. In this
case we're going to add a little bit of extra room to the front and
back neckline for the collar.
1. Measure over 3/8" along the front
bodice neckline and make a mark. (The front is ALWAYS indicated by
the small triangle). Draw in the new front neckline curve as
shown.
2. Measure over 3/8" along the back
bodice neckline and make a mark. (The back is ALWAYS indicated
by a small circle in our pattern makeover classes). Draw in
the new back neckline curve as shown.
One thing to remember when changing the neckline
for new collars is that the small triangle (front marking) and small
circle (back marking) are not used as notches or a means to match
the collar front and back, but are used only to indicate the front
and back and to figure the length of the front and back in
order to make the new collar.
DRAWING THE COLLAR
The front and back neck measurements (triangle
and circle) are figured according to the measurement of the front
and back of YOUR PATTERN, so in all cases, use the pattern's
measurements when drawing the collar.
1. As stated above, measure the newly drawn
front and back necklines (the triangle area and circle area).
Draw a horizontal line to equal the length you just measured.
2. On the right hand side of the horizontal
line, square the line and draw a vertical line 2 3/4" high.
Draw the upper horizontal line and the left hand side vertical lines
to complete the collar.
3. Mark "fold" along the right hand
vertical line. When cutting the fabric, cut ONE of the pattern
piece, on the fold of the material, with the fold being on a
diagonal line. Cut interfacing the same size as the collar.
ATTACHING THE COLLAR TO THE BLOUSE/DRESS
1. If using iron-on interfacing, press it
to the wrong side of the collar. Fold the collar in half
lengthwise, right sides together, and pin the side edges. Sew
both edges.
2. Staystitch the neckline of the garment
to prevent stretching (A). Clip into the neckline at one inch
intervals which will permit the collar to fit smoothly onto the
garment. Cut carefully so you don't cut through the stitching
line.
3. With right sides together, pin the edge
of the collar to the garment (B). Stitch the seam and
backstitch at each end to secure the stitching.
4. Press the seam (C) up towards the
collar. Fold under the facing from the upper part (D) and pin
in place. Stitch the collar at the neckline, removing the pins
as you sew.
5. Look back at the collar pattern and
notice the dashed lines in the middle of the collar -- those dashed
lines indicate the "roll" of the roll collar. After doing the
sewing process, roll the collar on the garment -- or if you wish to
have a taller standing collar, don't do the roll. The back
closure of the roll collar can be completed by attaching a hook and
eye fastener to the ends of the collar, so that the collar ends meet
when fastened.
You can see how easy it is to
make a collar for the basic blouse/dress. If you would like to learn how to make
NINE different collars to add to a basic blouse/dress, jump on down to the
"How To Make Collars" classes, as indicated below. There are two
collar
classes available - one for the regular S-XL size ranges, and the
Full Figure class for those who are 1X - 8X size ranges.
PC-103 How To Make Collars Class - $7.95
PCF-103 How To Make Collars Class - $7.95
(Full Figure)
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